The Modern Witch's Guide to Visiting Salem (Bonus!)
As I write, I’m just returning home from a weekend trip to Salem, MA — my 7th time in the glorious Witch City, one of my favorite places on Earth. As I walked the historic cobblestone streets with my man, juggling coffees and shopping bags and weaving in and out of stores, I couldn’t help but think of the first trip I’d ever made to Salem. Needless to say, I did tons of shopping (this is still true, though I’m a little more discerning and informed about my selections), visited all the museums and did all the touristy things, and I also found myself in some truly strange situations (like the “reading” I received from a “psychic” in her “spirit parlor” which was actually just her apartment, where her mom was running around in fuzzy pink slippers as she fished for vague tidbits about my adolescent life.) Needless to say, a witch’s first trip to Salem can be a little overwhelming, as witchcraft and spiritualism are so highly commercialized here that every corner features an opportunity to get your cards read, your aura cleansed, or to purchase a giant citrine. This is the very thing I love about Salem — that witchcraft and mysticism are completely commonplace and even sustain the local economy — but navigating the city’s offerings is not always intuitive, and it’s only after a series of trial-and-error that I’ve curated a specific itinerary after learning to discern the inevitable tourist traps from the true gems. But before I share my ideal day in Salem with you, here are a few general pieces of advice I have if you’re considering planning a trip to the Witch City.
If you plan on actually doing some shopping, avoid Salem altogether in the month of October. I love Salem in the summertime for the simple reason that it avoids the sweeping crowds and presents a higher chance of comfortable walking weather. From May to September, businesses are fully open with on-season hours as anticipation builds for their busiest moment of the year, but personally, I like to avoid longs lines and weaving around gaggles of slow-moving tourists (and especially post-pandemic, many shops exercise capacity limits.) October in Salem is truly an amazing experience and if you choose to arrange your trip for spooky season, I don’t think you’ll be disappointed — but know that you’ll need to book extremely early (well-located hotels fill up about a year in advance) and anticipate inevitable wait-times, long lines and dense crowds. IMO, it’s worth it to go just a tad earlier to beat the tourism, and Salem is absolutely beautiful and lively in the warmer months!
Don’t go to Salem looking for a meaningful reading of any kind. Not because there aren’t quality tarot readers, mediums and palmistry experts practicing in Salem but because ultimately, the density is so high of people offering these kinds of services that for every one quality working witch is that many more shams. Of course, exercising discernment — plus a little intuition and common sense — could guide you toward a fantastic experience, but do be mindful of how many individuals capitalize on simply being located in Salem, even if they aren’t offering a quality service. The unfortunate reality is that there are a lot of people advertising these services in Witch City hoping to profit off of tourists looking for exactly this kind of experience (and some of them will even be parked at street corners with pamphlets!) Needless to say, it’s important to do your research and not waltz in to the first of the many psychic parlors you’ll see, and know that you’re just as likely to find a quality experience in your own area or a trusted online source. And of course, the best knowledge and guidance you can receive is unlikely to be found within the back of a smoky room in a Salem gift shop by an Elvira look-alike. If you’re interested in using your time in Salem to garner more personal empowerment and clarity, The Witch City is a great place to seek out whatever tools you’re most drawn to — whether it be the Tarot, a pendulum, a set of runes or I Ching — and grab some how-to books!
Know the history, and tread with respect. While modern witches visit Salem for it’s great shopping and to connect with others of a refreshingly like-mind, the city’s role as the East Coast’s epicenter of witchcraft and mysticism is the result of the notorious Salem Witch Trials — so even if the latter isn’t the reason for your visit, you can’t separate one from the other. Though not a history buff myself, I think it’s important to know the facts in order to be a respectful and informed tourist. Firstly, a common misconception many people have coming into Salem is that the witch trials of 1692 directly affected the area now known as modern-day Witch City, but it was actually the neighboring community of Salem Village (or modern-day Danvers) wherein Tituba was accused of witchcraft, thus beginning the nightmare that became the Massachusetts witch trials of 1692. It’s important to note, though, that although Tituba could have brought Afro-Caribbean witchcraft or knowledge of holistic healing practices and divination from Barbados into the Parris home, the trials otherwise had nothing to do with actual magick, Paganism or witchcraft, and the accused were not witches (or, in Tituba’s case, if they were this wasn’t the reason for their being accused— as an enslaved woman from a different cultural background, it would have been her to face immediate scrutiny and suspicion.) Like everywhere in the United States during this time, those who perished in Massachusetts were simply marginalized individuals, and the reasoning for their persecution was usually found in ethnic, cultural, sociopolitical, or economic differences (or even lifestyle differences — unmarried women with no children, or the wise women of their communities, would have also been at significantly higher risk.) Witchcraft is highly commercialized in the Witch City now, and while it’s a beautiful thing that we can gather in it’s cobblestone streets and celebrate the fact that the Burning Times didn’t kill the magick, we should do so in remembrance of those who didn’t survive this terrifying moment within American history.
Now, here’s my mini modern witch’s guide to Salem, with all the need-to-know info!
Lodging 🏨
If you’re visiting Salem as a modern witch with the intention of shopping, sight-seeing, and experiencing everything the city has to offer, you want to stay at The Hawthorne. It’s hardly glamorous, chic or modern — in fact, quite the opposite, it’s an extremely old, historic building with a spooky New England feel — but you absolutely cannot beat it’s location. Nestled in the heart of downtown Salem on Essex Street, you’re a comfortable and safe walking distance away from every single location discussed in this itinerary (and I wear heels!) Parking at the Hawthorne is also a breeze — with a private lot right beside the hotel, you’ll enjoy easy access to your vehicle (unlike many other hotels in Salem, which require parking in a separate lot that’s an awkward walking distance from the actual hotel. I’m not a witch about carrying my luggage and hauling my motherload of crystals and candles all the way down Essex Street and then to an obscure parking lot!) There are always cool events happening in the Ballroom, and if you happen to go in October (which, as I said, I don’t necessarily recommend) you might even catch a glimpse of the infamous annual Salem Halloween Ball, which is truly a sight. Another bonus of staying here: it’s pet-friendly, so it’s ideal if you’re travelling with a familiar in tow. If you travel a little bit lighter than me and don’t like the vibe of a haunted hotel, the Hotel Salem is a newer boutique hotel in a great location on Essex Street.
Morning Coffee☕
There are actually a lot of cool coffee shops in Salem, but I’ve only visited one in my many trips to the Witch City because it’s right in the heart of Essex Street and the coffee is life-changing deliciously, giving me no reason to deviate (I crave their coffee too often to go elsewhere!) The mentioned coffee shop is Brew Box, and you can count on them to fuel your action-packed day in Salem with an unforgettably flavorful beverage (and a notably cool, modern/witchy aesthetic!) Order the cereal milk latte, hot or iced (and pray to the Goddess it’s lucky charms, although the rotating flavors are always delicious!) and if you’re hungry for a quick bite, order the Adobo Chicken Panini (I also love the arugula pesto grilled cheese and though not technically breakfast, they’ll serve both these sandwiches as early as 10.) While you wait for your coffee and/or sando, feel free to admire the mesmerizing artwork on the wall (and depending on when you go, they may have merch back! We were told they were out for the foreseeable future, but they usually have their iconic “Queen of Cups” shirts, stickers and other paraphernalia available to peruse while you’re waiting.) There’s nowhere to sit inside, but if you’d like to enjoy your witch’s brew in peace before heading out to shop and roam the streets, there’s a beautiful park right across the street that’s never busy and has ample sunlit or shaded seating.
Seeing the Sights🏠
While sight-seeing isn’t priority during my visits to Salem, you’d be crazy not to appreciate the city’s rich history, iconic mansions and spooky old cemeteries. I’m not a big fan of guided group tours, but if you’re staying at the Hawthorne or elsewhere downtown, it’s absolutely worth it to type some of these locations right into your phone’s GPS and drop by. Grab a cereal milk latte, head down Essex Street and prepare to be amazed!
“Allison’s House”, aka The Ropes Mansion. Located at 318 Essex Street in the historic district, the Ropes Mansion is one of Salem’s several iconic filming locations from the movie Hocus Pocus* (though much of the movie was not actually filmed in Salem, it seems it’s most memorable scenes were those with Witch City as it’s backdrop, like the fateful moment where Allison, Max and Dani reluctantly agree to pay a visit to the old Sanderson house over warm cider in the mansion’s iconic living room!) Now owned by the Peabody Essex Museum, it’s open to the public on weekends but when we went, the door was closed and despite a light on in a room upstairs, it didn’t seem to be accepting visitors— we did, however, get to explore the expansive Ropes Gardens in the backyard of the mansion, which are stunning all throughout the summer months and open to the public for free.
The Salem Witch House. Located at 310 Essex Street just steps away from the Ropes Mansion, the Salem Witch House is a uniquely dark piece of history because — as I overheard a nearby Tour Guide explain — it’s the only remaining structure in Salem with a distinct connection to the Massachusetts witch trials of 1692 (mostly because, contrary to what most people believe, this isn’t where the primary action unfolded.) The “Witch House” as it’s now known was owned by a man named Jonathan Corwin, a judge who was infamously called upon to investigate some “suspicious” activity in the nearby community of Salem Village (thus beginning the reign of terror now known as The Salem Witch Trials.) It was Jonathon Corwin who oversaw the proceedings — and while there’s no proof of this, some of the examinations likely took place inside of his Essex Street residence— and ultimately sentenced nineteen innocent individuals to death over the course of the summer of 1692. Corwin was also good friends with fellow judge John Hathorne, the great-great grandfather of early American writer Nathaniel Hawthorne (who was born and raised in Salem and later added the “w” to his name to dissociate himself from his dark ancestry, which plagued him throughout his lifetime and very much seemed to inform his writing.) For those interested in visiting Salem for it’s historical role within the Massachusetts witch trials, seeing the Witch House is a must — and though it doesn’t have anything to do with actual witchcraft, I always stop here because I think it’s important to know the history of a community in order to appreciate it fully. I personally love to visit Salem because it’s a community that celebrates oddity and diversity, but this very much contrasts it’s oppressive, early colonial American roots.
While The Salem Witch House does offer paid group tours throughout the museum inside, this is about as close as I personally would like to get. Here, I was admiring the beautiful catmint — it feels like an offering to the many felines who would have perished during the Witch Trials, which many historians suspect was related to the Black Plague spreading through early Colonial America in the 17th century as disease-carrying rat populations became out of control.
The Old Town Hall. Located at 32 Derby Square just off Essex Street, The Old Town Hall is another famous Hocus Pocus* filming location (it’s where the parents’ held their costume party and Bette Midler rocked the house down when she sang “I Put a Spell on You” which, unbeknownst to them, was an actual enchantment.) Now owned by the City of Salem and available to rent out for private events, it was open and full of vendors when we stopped by; we were able to walk right in and even stopped to do some shopping (if you’re fortunate enough to catch the Soy Much Brighter vendor anywhere in the Massachusetts area, def stop by and snag the French Lilac and High Priestess candles — you won’t be sorry!) The Old Town Hall is definitely a worthwhile stop— not only for any events which may be held there, but simply for the chance to see it’s iconic ballroom firsthand.
*Although an objectively great movie, it’s important to note that like many fantastical depictions and references of witches in early Puritan New England (including a lot of popular horror movies, such as The Conjuring franchise), Hocus Pocus gets it wrong — The Puritans were not kindly individuals fearful of legitimate danger to their families and children, and those hanged were not witches out to eat, kill or harm the local kiddos. The Puritans were religiously fanatical, fearful of differences and often greedy, with underlying motives for accusing friends and neighbors (which, unless they “confessed,” meant death.) Those hanged were not necessarily witches in any sense of the word, although certainly, unmarried wise women with no children and a knowledge of herbs and medicines would have naturally been at particular risk, as would have all marginalized groups. According to the Puritan mindset, women were supposed to be pious and pure, yet sexually available to their husbands and ultimately maternal and doting, willing to bare and care for multiple children. Any woman who rebelled against this idea would have been immediately suspected (hence the archaic depiction of the witch as a child-eater — the perverse, violent opposite of a loving, caring mother.)
Shopping🛍
While there’s lots to love about Salem, let’s be real — you can’t beat the shopping. I save extensively for my annual trip to the Witch City because I know I’m going to encounter beautiful things that are well-priced and truly unique, from hand-made besoms blessed by a local coven to strikingly beautiful crystal carvings and kitchenware artfully engraved with sigils. While it’s absolutely worth it to hit as many stores as you can — and I do try to visit them all to compare prices and assess what seems to be the most unique — here are the four witcheries in Salem that I think bring something particularly special and shouldn’t be missed.
Crowhaven Corner. Probably one of the most iconic witch shops in Salem, Crowhaven Corner is the big black storefront on Essex Street and boasts that it’s the city’s single oldest witchery. It’s definitely got that commercialized Salem vibe — they offer tours and readings and custom spells by their famous love witch, Lorelei — but IMO, the extensive inventory distinguishes it from some of the other more gimmicky Essex Street witcheries. I personally have gotten some stunning craft items here (such as the besom which hangs outside my front door — still one of my favorite treasures I’ve ever brought home from Salem) and they also have gorgeous hand-made wands, witch balls, a well-stocked library section with unique reads, and everything you’d expect from an old-school Salem witchery — candles, spell-kits, pendulums and tumbled stones galore. I’d especially recommend Crowhaven Corner for the beginner witch trying to stock up on the basic essentials, as the staff is friendly and knowledgeable and they’ll have everything you need to get started. But even for the more experienced practitioner, I’d say Crowhaven Corner is worth stopping in; I always begin at the front of the store to see if they have any unique mineral specimens (I once found a beautiful large pink tourmaline-included quartz here, which now sits on my love altar in our bedroom.) If they have any unique craft items on display — many of which are sourced from local witches and artisans — these will also be near the entrance (last week, they were selling gorgeous witch balls from a local glassblower hanging elegantly above the tumbled stones.)
The Village Silversmith. Controversial statement alert: the Village Silversmith is the place to buy crystals and minerals in Salem, period. Humbly located in the Witch City Mall with it’s own private entrance on Essex Street, the Village Silversmith has several storefronts throughout New England and is not really a “witchery” — I’ve been to a few of it’s storefronts (the one in Portsmouth, NH, is also worth a trip!) but I’m pretty sure they reserve their juiciest, most impressive jewelry and mineral specimens for their Salem location. The owners of the shop are in partnership with many different mines around the world, and their truly incredible selection of diverse gems, minerals and even fossils reflects this. If you’re a crystal-lover like myself, it might even be overwhelming to first enter — from large geodes to medium-sized flames, to beautiful carvings, spheres, natural points, generators and rare tumbled stones you won’t find anywhere else, the Village Silversmith has it all and at a truly fantastic price-point. Whether you’re a witchy mystic, a high-end mineral collector or simply a crystal-loving geo-freak, a visit to this store is a must. I usually go at least once a day for however long I’m in the Witch City — it truly takes that long to traverse the many aisles, examining my favorite specimens and holding them to see how they feel in my hand — and at this point in my mineral-collecting stage of witchery, this is pretty much the only place I routinely find something that is unlike anything else in my collection. I’d recommend making several trips to the Village Silversmith and carving out a few minutes to really take your time — if you’re anything like me, your initial instinct may be to buy everything in sight. On the final morning before my departure, it’s my routine to head here right after my morning Bew Box trip to grab whatever I still can’t stop thinking about (in the past, I’ve walked away with a Calcite soap dispenser, a hand-carved Soapstone Goddess, a giant vase carved out of Onyx, and a huge pyrite for my abundance altar that sparkled so much it looked like it had been covered in glitter.)
Hauswitch Home & Healing. Tucked away on Washington Street in the heart of downtown Salem, the Hauswitch brand really appeals to my Cancer Moon — with a cool aesthetic, a modern, feminist-centric approach to witchcraft and ethical sourcing at the forefront of their business model, a trip to this store is truly an experience unlike any other in Salem. If I personally were to open a supply-shop for mystics here in my home town, it would very much be in the spirit of this store: the bright, open concept is massively refreshing after spending the day in some of the more dimly-lit old school Salem witcheries, and as the name implies, their merchandise places emphasis on low-key witchcraft practiced within the home — you’ll find adorably-packaged spell kits for conjuring harmony with roommates or magnetizing the perfect space, and they sell candles which both smell amazing and serve as self-sufficient mini-spells when burning (so no, you don’t need to raise a formal circle or summon the Four Directions — just light ‘em and you’re done!) They sell all-natural cleaning products imbued with metaphysical properties, pillows and blankets depicting channeled sigils (made of ethically-sourced material, of course), intentional bath and beauty products to ritualize everyday self-care routines, and self-published spell-books, magazines and zines by lesser-known writers and thinkers of a younger, more progressive generation. The modern take on witchcraft is super refreshing if you’re a busy mystic looking to work more magick into your everyday life, but don’t worry — you’ll find everything offered in the old school Salem witcheries here as well, but beautifully packaged and thoughtfully curated for convenience, inclusivity, and activism, including gorgeous crystal specimens charged by the coven (I have one of their “F*ck the Patriarchy” Black Obsidian points intentionally placed in my front window), bottled gem elixirs (which can be added to your morning coffee, your nightly cocktail or simply dropped under the tongue with your morning supplements), and perhaps most uniquely, they now have an aura photography booth, open to the public by appointment (which you can pre-make through their website.) You’ll walk away with a physical copy of the photo to keep, and a staff member will spend a few minutes offering their unique interpretation of what makes your aura unique! (And pro tip: if you actually want a flattering photo, be sure to sit still the whole time. Otherwise, you’ll def look like a ghost — my man and I were squirming as the photo took and it looks like he has two faces, which I actually kinda love but you may not!) Don’t forget to grab some of their custom stickers for your laptop, an adorable thank-you card for whoever watched your cats while you were away, and a bar of artisan chocolate because you love yourself (the potato chip/ milk chocolate is the store owner’s favorite, but my sis loves the white chocolate lavender!)
The Cauldron Black. Located on scenic Wharf Street by the water, The Cauldron Black is understated and easily overlooked by those not searching for it, but it’s definitely one of my all-time favorite shopping destinations in Salem. From beautifully engraved cheese boards to artisan planters and the most elegant smudge sticks bound with crystals and dried flowers, their inventory is unique and much of it hand-made by local artists and crafters — I always walk out not with something specific checked off my list, but with a beautiful item that was too unique to leave behind and that I’m absolutely in love with (it’s like the TJ Maxx of witcheries!) Like Crowhaven Corner without the crowds, they have all the basic essentials a beginner witch might need — from pendulums to spell candles, cauldrons and brooms — along with a beautiful assortment of artisan soaps, a nice selection of seeds and gardening tools, unique coffee table books and zines, and other novelty items you won’t find anywhere else (plus, they’ll probably be playing some good heavy metal— there’s nothing like shopping for herbal tinctures and luxury bath salts while System of a Down plays in the background! If nothing else, you gotta appreciate the range.) If you’re visiting Salem not as a practicing witch but simply to dip a toe in and enjoy some light magickal exposure, this approachable, diverse storefront likely has something perfect for you — consider an elegant spoon-rest engraved with the triple goddess symbol, or a statement of a coffee-table book which muses on the element most prominent in your birth chart.
Our treasures from this trip (and this isn’t everything!)
Cocktails🍸
After a long day of shopping, sight-seeing and generally just being magickal, what’s a witch to do but put up her black pointed-toe platforms and enjoy an enchanted libation in the clouds? At happy hour on a sunny summer day in Salem, there’s nowhere you’d rather be than The Roof. Conveniently located atop the Salem Inn on Essex Street, this rooftop bar features a beautiful cocktail list and 360 views of Salem. Order a coconut margarita as you overlook the Salem Harbor at sunset and if your tummy starts to rumble, the tacos will not disappoint! Conversely, after a long day and a nice evening out, wrap things up at The Tavern Bar inside the Hawthorne Hotel — if you’re taking my advice and staying right in the hotel, it’s the perfect place for a quick night-cap to unwind before retreating back to the room (and if you’re not staying there, it’s all the more reason to pop in for a cocktail — it’s a cool building and an iconic Salem landmark!) If you’re in the mood for something sweet, order the espresso martini — it’s layered cream and chocolate pentacle garnish make this the perfectly decadent witchy night-cap — and if you’re staying in the hotel, ask for a bottle of complimentary water from the front desk on the way up (nothing dims the magick of being in Salem quite like a hangover the next day and — as my partner and I hilariously discovered — this will show in your aura photo!)
Dinner🍝
I love my trips to Salem because unlike other vacations, I get my movement in — we park the car for the entire duration of the trip and walk everywhere, often while carrying numerous bags (some of which contain heavy crystals and a multitude of candles.) The major benefit to this is that by the end of the day, this witch is starving — and like any urban destination, Salem has some really chic, fun and unique dining options to accommodate a number of different dietary needs and preferences. As a seafood-lover, one of my favorite restaurants in Salem is Finz — located on Wharf street right on the harbor with water-side dining, their seafood is fresh and always perfectly prepared, the vibe is casual and fun and the service friendly and accommodating. Order some sushi for the table as you peruse the extensive menu— we loved the spicy tuna maki and also shared the buffalo-style calamari which was delicious — and definitely ask to sit outside (trust me, it’s worth the wait — which usually isn’t that extensive. The resident duck may fly in from off the harbor and squawk at you for a snack and if she does, be sure to slip her a mussel. Also, wear layers. It get chilly on the harbor as the sun sets, even after a warm day!) The other eatery I’d recommend is The Ledger, located on the corner of Essex and Washington street. A historic old bank turned restaurant, The Ledger’s preserved 19th-century interior is as unique as their menu which is anything but dated; every dish is well-executed and thoughtfully curated, the sleek, modernized open kitchen is well-run and fascinating to observe, and you can count on the service to be knowledgeable and professional yet warm and approachable. Begin with a dirty martini with blue cheese-stuffed olives (yes, they have them!) and appreciate the fact that whatever delicious thing you order, a portion of your bill goes directly to the kitchen staff — you gotta love an establishment that cares for it’s people! It’s worth noting that these are both places you’ll want to make a reservation well in advance of your trip, even if you’ll be a smaller party — as an industry professional myself, I would always recommend this if you want to ensure you’ll be accommodated. The post-pandemic restaurant scene has become very reservation-heavy, especially as many establishments choose not to fill their dining rooms in order to keep guests comfortable and appropriately spaced apart.
Our first course at the Ledger! I’m enjoying tuna tartar with taro root chips while my man has the burrata toast with apricots, prosciutto, Thai basil and spicy honey. I also heard that their Sunday Brunch isn’t to be missed (and honestly, Sunday morning in Salem is such a vibe — it’s so peaceful and calm.)
Enjoy your trip to the Witch City! If you decide to support any of these businesses, let me know what you think and how you like it!
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